My trip in 2022
Travel report
The travelogue was only written in January 2023. Luckily, I keep a diary when I'm traveling, so nothing gets forgotten.
With all my luggage, I stood at Zurich Airport – quite nervous. It was my first time traveling to Nepal completely alone. My luggage contained far too many medications that I wasn't even allowed to bring.
The journey via Doha went smoothly. After 16 hours, I arrived in Khatmandu – my luggage was delayed. Just as I was about to leave without it, with hardly anyone else in the waiting area, all four pieces landed on the conveyor belt almost simultaneously.
I loaded everything up and looked for the exit – the airport had changed. There was no sign of Narayan outside – but as soon as I noticed the smells in the air, the honking on the street, my nervousness vanished. I spoke with a few Nepalese people until Narayan arrived. There was a traffic jam – a bus was lying across the ditch, blocking the main road.
Once in Thamel, I quickly showered and went to eat with Narayan. The next day, we organized my stay – what we wanted to do, how we would proceed.
The first item on "the list" was the visit to Grang .
After visiting Grang , we had another day's rest in Kathmandu before getting back into the jeep.
The journey began at 6:30 a.m.; we arrived in the village at 4:30 p.m. We spent almost 10 hours again in the jeep on bumpy roads. Although the road from Dhading to the large river is now paved, it's difficult to get through during the rainy season.
The arrival was very pleasant – the last few times, the whole village was always there waiting – this time, there was no one in sight. But the bush telephone still works very efficiently. A few older women quickly came to greet me, and Gopi, the cook from our 2010 trek, came running over happily. The joy and gratitude were evident on everyone's faces – it was so wonderful to see all those familiar faces again ♥
Much has changed in the region. Villages have been merged into districts, and Phulkharkha, where the school is located, is now the main town (center city). Driving by, one could see the many new buildings that have been constructed. For the people here, this also means much greater comfort – with a small hospital nearby, official business can be conducted without hours of walking.
I'm staying with Arjun again. When I thank him, he laughs and says, "Well, the house mostly belongs to you." Quite tired, we enjoyed a delicious dal bhat. I had only the best cuts of wild goat meat—no cartilage, no bones, no skin or fat. I'm a little ashamed that I'm being treated so pampered—but I simply can't eat the other bits, and my loved ones know that by now.
It's different being in the village without Tobias and Christian. Narayan understandably spends a lot of time with his family; he doesn't visit all that often, and most of the villagers still speak a rudimentary amount of English. Although it's always amazing how little language you need to understand each other—even my Nepali is getting a tiny bit better each time…
There have also been improvements in the village. In 2016, the village was connected to the electricity grid. There are still few people using electricity. A refrigerator now stands in one of the small rooms in Arjun's house. An iron is also available. The biggest improvement is certainly the satellite internet that Arjun had installed. The network is called "Bhumesthan Village" and is available to all villagers, which is a great benefit. So many children and young adults are working abroad, so this at least gives them a way to stay in touch.
Arjun's children have grown so much. Abiseth has become a young man who speaks really good English – thanks in large part to the YouTube videos they watch… Bumikha is no longer a toddler either. Narayan's mother seems a bit frail, but she blossoms when she sees pictures of our twins. As a welcome gift, I'm given a beautiful diary – I always write in it when I'm traveling. I'm very touched.
I had a very good conversation with Arjun about the scholarship program. It's wonderful to see how important and serious he is about this task. Unfortunately, the money isn't enough for all the poor families, so he carefully selects the children who are motivated and have a talent. This certainly isn't easy – he can only offer support to about two-thirds of the children who need it.
Everyone slowly went to sleep around 10…
At 6 a.m. it got noisy outside the room – you rise with the sun. At 8 a.m. we met all the villagers who were there. A joyful reunion – everyone seemed happy, healthy, and at peace. When I think of the pictures after the earthquake, the pictures of Grang who received no help after the quake, and see this now, I truly realize everything we have "achieved."
Funny Old Man wasn't at the Lazy Stone – he was ill and very weak. So I went to look for him. When he saw me, tears streamed down his face – and mine too. He's 96 and I never thought I'd see him again. I gave him a picture of my twins and he beamed – he told me that a picture of us hangs in his room and he's going to hang this one next to it.
Then we had Dhal Bhaat for breakfast – what else?
What I experienced at school – you can read about here…
Back in Bhumesthan, I went to visit the residents. Everywhere I went, I was offered food – after two hours I was stuffed. Again, I missed the two boys – I usually always give them some of my food…
That evening I had my first longer conversation in Nepali – Narayan wasn't there, and the others didn't speak English. Even though it was a very simple conversation, I'm still a little proud. Nepali is quite a difficult language to learn, at least for me ;)
Unfortunately, it's almost time to say goodbye again. The residents have to work in the fields; there's really nothing else to do. Thanks to the rainy season, it's very hot and wet, so a hike isn't really an option either.
During my time in the village, I realize how much I feel at home in this world – how a part of me resists going back to Switzerland, to this affluent society that has lost its heart a little.
I've gotten used to all the little "inconveniences" here in Nepal – almost nothing bothers me anymore (except sleeping on a board, I don't think I'll ever get used to that). Above all, I see the humility, contentment, and this wonderful community that relies on itself – that is there for each other.
The journey back to Kathmandu was, as always, a bit tiring. We got stuck in the mud – got caught in a traffic jam on the Nepali Highway… But I had so many thoughts running through my head – somehow I always manage to get through it again.
I'm spending the last few days in Kathmandu. I'm visiting friends I've known for a long time, doing a little sightseeing – but mostly we're talking a lot. It feels so good to be here – to see all these lovely and fascinating people; to immerse myself in their world.
It also makes me very happy to see progress in your world. Like Jeevan, whom I met seven years ago – back then he was working as a cook in Dubai under questionable conditions, but now he runs a canteen in Kathmandu, cooking for 2,000 students a day. At home, he has a small farm where he grows vegetables and keeps chickens. In return for the work on the farm, he provides accommodation for other families.
There are so many more wonderful stories, so many exciting encounters, so many interesting conversations to share. But I think most of what WIR BEWEGEN has already been said – so I will now use the remaining time to raise more money for the projects – because it is truly needed.
