Travelogue - Visit to Nepal 2024

After more than 20 hours of travel, we arrived tired in Kathmandu. Narayan gave us a warm welcome and took us to our small Airbnb apartment, which was located just outside Thamel. Our hosts, a lovely couple, were incredibly welcoming. Hari spoke perfect French – unfortunately not my strong suit – but we were able to communicate well in English.

We spent three nights in Kathmandu, showing the children the city and visiting friends. They both did wonderfully, even though everything was completely new to them: the hustle and bustle, the smells, the noise. They soaked up the city's energy, which was quite a challenge for us as parents. We visited several sights, met up with old acquaintances, and immersed ourselves together in this exciting, foreign world.

Conditions within caste and comparison with Grang

In Kaste, 65 families live and manage their daily lives in a challenging environment. When we included the village in the goat project, we initially divided it into two groups, as we didn't believe we could provide so many animals and donations at once. However, thanks to the tremendous support, especially from the Lions Club Hochwald-Hermeskeil (Germany), we were ultimately able to raise enough funds to support all the families simultaneously.

Sourcing the animals, however, proved to be a major challenge. Our experience from the village Grang, which we had supported a few years prior, was invaluable. In Grang we had sourced goats from distant regions, which was problematic for some animals – particularly due to the cold and damp climate on the north-facing slope, where they couldn't thrive. This time, we decided to obtain only animals from the immediate vicinity of Kaste. However, the large number of goats required – including two breeding bucks that had to be as "equally good" as possible to avoid any rivalry – still made the organization extremely difficult.

Three men worked for almost two months to ensure that all the animals arrived in the village on time. Their work was intensive: animals had to be selected, checked, transported, and distributed. For their tireless efforts, they received a wage of 400 CHF, which they shared.

Kaste itself lies in the Dhading region – a region that, while lushly vegetated, is characterized by steep slopes. The villagers have no direct access to a water source, meaning they must travel long distances to fetch water. Rice cultivation is also difficult in this terrain, further complicating food security.

The village is widely scattered, yet community is highly valued here. In difficult times, the family that is best off helps the others – no one is left behind. The strong solidarity among the women is particularly noteworthy, as they often have to manage daily life without male support. Single mothers and widowed women are welcomed into the village community, so female faces are clearly in the majority.

Despite the difficult living conditions, the people of Kaste have an impressive resilience and solidarity, which has once again shown us how important and effective projects like this are.

The ceremony

This time, the goats had already been distributed in the village before our arrival, so we were greeted by a beautiful scene: many happy faces, proudly displaying their new animals. We received a warm welcome and sat down in a decorated square, where traditional flower garlands were placed around our necks – a gesture of gratitude and appreciation that deeply touched us. Our twins were also included. Nepalese people love children, and so the two quickly became the center of attention. Everyone wanted to hold them or at least give them a quick touch. This warm, but unfamiliar, closeness was too much for one of our daughters, and my husband took her aside to give her a short break. The other daughter bravely stayed by my side, taking in the colorful spectacle with wide eyes.

Narayan, our longtime friend and local coordinator, opened the ceremony with a speech. He welcomed the villagers, explained the background of our association , and listed the projects WIR BEWEGEN to date. His words made us reflect – it's incredible how much we have achieved together in recent years.

Then the ceremony began: The names of the beneficiaries were read from a list, and each person came forward with their animal to show it to us. A few years ago in Grang , I had the opportunity to photograph each animal and its owner. This time it was a bit more chaotic – with a six-year-old girl by my side, asking curious questions and demanding a lot of attention. She did a fantastic job, but it was still a challenge to keep track of everything. To make matters worse, in all the excitement, I had set the camera incorrectly, which I'm really embarrassed about. Unfortunately, this means there isn't a photo of every animal – a huge apology to all the donors! Nevertheless, I was able to see the list during the speeches and confirm the number of people and animals: There were indeed 65 goats and 2 breeding bucks, proudly presented to us.

After the animals were presented, the spokesperson for the first group took the floor. She warmly thanked all the donors who had made this wonderful donation of goats possible. She said it was a gift that the villagers could put to great use in the future and that would help them better cope with the challenges of everyday life.

Afterwards, we were invited to a beautifully prepared buffet. I have rarely enjoyed such a rich and delicious dal bhat in Nepal – and to the great delight of our children, there were even French fries.

After a hearty meal, we visited two families who shared their stories with us. Two generous donors had contributed a substantial sum through crowdfunding to make these stories possible. It was deeply moving to hear about their experiences and circumstances. The paths between the houses led through a small jungle on the steep slope, which we had to navigate with difficulty – a symbol of the challenges these people face every day.

Time in Bhumesthan

After our stay in Kaste, we got back into the jeep and set off for Bhumesthan. The drive along the bumpy track took a good hour and, as always, demanded our full attention and patience. When we arrived, it was still relatively early, and most of the villagers were still at work. This gave us the opportunity to arrive in peace, without being immediately overwhelmed by everyone.

Narayan's mother greeted us with a loving blessing. It was a touching moment, as she had never met our children in person and was visibly happy to finally see them.

Narayan's family's small outbuilding, which once stood above the goat shed, had finally been rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake. So we were able to stay overnight in the newly renovated rooms. Extra blankets were laid on the boards for our children, serving as mattresses to make their sleep a bit softer and more comfortable. The "bathroom renovation" was particularly exciting. After Arjun's severe back pain last year and Narayan's mother having to have gallstone surgery, they had installed a Western-style toilet in the small outhouse. This was a real blessing for our children, as they weren't entirely comfortable with the traditional toilets with holes in the floor.

After another delicious Dal Bhat, we soon went to bed – the Jeep ride had made us all quite tired.

The next morning, we greeted the villagers, who welcomed us with flower garlands and tikas. It was a beautiful moment of community and gratitude. We had brought small gifts for the villagers, including the chocolate we had brought, which was very well received. Of course, we also brought Voltaren cream, which has almost become a standard gift here. This time, we had also packed paracetamol, as the local paracetamol is said to cause severe side effects.

Afterwards, we strolled through the village, stopping at various houses and receiving a warm welcome everywhere – as is the local tradition. Tea and something to eat were offered at every turn as a token of their gratitude. Our children found it particularly exciting to see all the animals roaming freely. For us, it was a joy to see all the familiar faces again and to spend time with the people who had become so dear to us.

The next day we took a trip to a sacred waterfall. Even though the waterfall had little water at that time of year, the view was breathtaking, and the tranquility of the place invited us to pause and reflect.

On the way back, we briefly stopped by the school I had visited two years ago. It was lovely to see that some of the children recognized me. Our twins were curiously admired, which they didn't particularly enjoy. Luckily, we found a quieter corner where there was popcorn and eggs – a welcome change.

The evening held another special highlight for us. The newly formed "Bhumesthan Women Group" had gathered to introduce us to their community. This group of women has made it their mission to launch projects together and thus escape the often monotonous daily routine. They sang and danced with such joy – it was an incredibly touching moment. The atmosphere was so infectious that we ended up dancing with them. This evening will surely remain in our hearts forever.

The last few days

Our journey continued to Pokhara, but before we could enjoy the city's relaxed atmosphere, we faced a challenging drive. Although the route was only 180 kilometers long, we spent a full 10 hours in the jeep. The road conditions remain a challenge – bumpy tracks and tight bends demanded a lot from us.

Pokhara itself has changed significantly since our last visit. The city has grown, but has retained its charm. For us, it remained a small oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of Nepal. Here we could breathe a little easier and enjoy our time.

One of the highlights was our trip to Sarangkot, a viewpoint overlooking the city. The sight of the majestic Himalayan mountains rising on the horizon is always breathtaking. It was a special moment to show our children this stunning landscape, so typical of Nepal. 

We spent most of our time in Pokhara with Narayan, who visibly blossomed in our children's company. The three of them got along wonderfully, playing and laughing together as if they had known each other forever. It was marvelous to see how well children and adults can communicate without a common language. Narayan doesn't speak German, our children don't speak English, and yet their interaction worked magically. It was as if they had found their own universal language.

After a few relaxing days in Pokhara, another long jeep ride awaited us – this time back to Kathmandu. Another 10 hours on bumpy roads, this time even on the so-called "Nepali Highway." The term "highway" seemed rather ironic, but the scenic scenery along the route made the ordeal at least somewhat more bearable.

Back in Kathmandu, we used our remaining days to experience some more special moments. Together with Narayan's family, we took a trip to Chandragiri, a popular viewpoint at an altitude of 2,500 meters. The location is accessible by gondola, which was a small adventure in itself for our children. The day was clear, and the view of the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas was simply breathtaking. It's always impressive how majestic and sublime this mountain range is.

We spent the rest of our time in Kathmandu with friends, doing some shopping and visiting the city's many restaurants. It was wonderful to once again enjoy Nepalese hospitality and the delicious cuisine.

But then came the day of our return journey. After a good two weeks in such a different world, it was time to say goodbye. We were on the go for 24 hours a day, from one door to the next – exhausted, but full of unforgettable memories. When we finally lay in our own beds, the relief was immense, but the longing for Nepal soon followed.